A Recent Demo With the EcoBlaster

Hey everybody! Recently we had a demo with our EcoBlaster out in the city of Placentia and I have to admit this demo kind of took me by surprise. It started out like any other demo; we showed up, introduced ourselves and went right into explaining how our equipment operates. It’s always great to hear different questions that people have to ask especially if it’s a question you’ve never been asked before.  A common question that we have for our possible future prospects is “what type of blasting applications do you do?” or “where would you be using this equipment?”. We quickly learned that they do a lot of work with theme parks, which are jobs that can be extremely demanding when it comes to job site cleanliness and containment.

After every attendees questions were answered thoroughly we proceeded to go through the start up procedures. As soon as the EcoBlaster was “blast ready” we began to blast on an extremely rusted metal cabinet that had some old, dull coatings leftover from its original purchase date. Man, the unit just ripped right through the rust and coating. Within minutes sections of the cabinet was stripped down to its original metal and looked brand new. All of the attendees were amazed and excited about the speed of the blasting process and the perfect profile; this cabinet was nearly ready to be re-coated! But that’s not what we were there for. They were also pleased to see no dust cloud or pile of spent abrasive on the ground in front of the cabinet. Now this is about the time where the demo took on an unusual twist. After they had seen enough blasting on the metal cabinet they started to bring out different types of wood for us to blast. They mentioned that they use blasting equipment on a lot of their jobs to make the wood around theme parks look “aged”. In blasting terms we call that “exposing the grain”. The first piece of wood was no different then the wood you might find on a wooden pallet. When blasting wood it’s important to remember two things:  start at a lower blast pressure and always adjust your distance from the object being blasted so you can properly “feather” the wood. The EcoBlaster ripped right through it; within seconds we had given them the exact look they wanted. Next, they set out a piece of oak wood and explained that this wood is much tougher because of its tighter granules. On one end of the oak wood we did a light profile to give our audience exactly what they wanted. However, this is wood that we have never blasted on before so on the opposite end of the oak we decided to crank up the blast pressure from 60 to 80 psi and minimize our distance from the object to really expose the grain. Our audience was pleased once again. For the third and final piece of wood they brought out what is called “iron wood”. To give you an idea of how dense iron wood is; it’s one of very few types of wood that will sink in water instead of float. We propped this heavy piece of wood up against the cabinet and got to work. We started blasting at 60 psi and had a solid two foot gap between the tip of the nozzle and the iron wood. It was tricky cause the abrasive was chewing away the wood but we weren’t exposing the grain like we wanted. So we decided to increase our blast pressure to 80 psi and close in our distance from the iron wood. Sometimes it takes a moment to dial in exactly what blast pressure you need for different surfaces. However, we did expose the grain on the iron wood and our audience was once again more than pleased! 

One thing I found interesting is at the end of a long demo like that there was more wood shavings collected on the ground than spent abrasive; pretty cool.          

EcoBlaster and You

This is Mateo with another EcoBlaster update! This is going to be a difficult blog to explain because not everyone has an EcoBlaster at their disposal. I’ll try and use as many pictures and examples as possible so we don’t lose anybody. I like to share things like this with everybody because I feel it’s only fair to let you know exactly what we offer and if the EcoBlaster does not fit well into your business model, then we thank you for your interest at least. When I first came into the blasting industry a year ago, I’ll be honest, I didn’t know much. Things like pressure vessel, vent valve, dead man, types of abrasive, were like a foreign language to me. Working with such “user friendly” equipment really made the difference though. Within weeks I was speaking the blasting “lingo” which really is one of the harder things to get, but I was stoked cause everytime we went on a demo I was now able to converse on a higher level. This is where the real learning kicked in! Being able to ask simple questions in a conversation normally gave you an extensive answer when working with folks who have been in the industry a long time. They tell you what they know, what equipment they use, the angle and distance they stand from objects being blasted, what type of coatings they prefer etc. Being able to explain equipment to them that they didn’t understand was awesome. Essentially the wet pot is what makes the EcoBlaster stand out from conventional dry pot sandblasting. The fact that we pressurize our water and media together in one pot makes all the difference, instead of injecting water directly at the tip of the nozzle; here’s why. Each piece of media is encapsulated with water, forming a water jacket around the abrasive. By doing so you increase each particle’s weight, which increases its momentum and changes it’s velocity completely. With that change you are able to blast at a low pressure (with less media) and still achieve the same productivity as conventional blasting methods.   

Lets go over some more specifics…

EcoBlaster Initial Setup

1. Confirm the EcoBlaster is level and properly supported on a surface that can easily hold its total weight (with a full tank of water and a full pot of water and abrasive it weighs 6,800 lbs.), along with all personnel and the material being blasted. Also, make sure the pot is clean of any internal debris either left over from a previous job or from an improperly cleaned or stored machine.

2. It is a good idea to rinse water through the pot and out through the disconnected “abrasive hose ball valve” before you begin to fill the pot with water and abrasive. The abrasive hose should only be disconnected at the cam and groove with the ball valve in the closed position. If the pot contains water and abrasive, releasing the cam and groove with the ball valve in the open position will cause an unintentional release of wet abrasive.
   

3. IMPORTANT NOTE: The Abrasive Ball Valve shown is in the CLOSED position. Confirm position before disconnecting Quick-coupler.

4. Make sure your Dump Valve is closed

5. IMPORTANT NOTE: The Dump Valve shown is closest to the bottom right hand corner of the picture and is also shown in the Closed position. When the handle is in line with the hose, the valve is in the Open position. Also, when you store the unit, position all ball valves in a half open position, as this helps protect the valve in cold weather.

6. Make sure the Rinse Ball Valve is closed. Rinse Ball Valve Is located at the top left of the picture and is shown in the Closed position. The rinse function only works when the Selector Valve is in the “OFF/RINSE” position.

7. Make sure the E-Stop is  disengaged. The water pump will not work unless the E-Stop is disengaged (pulled out). The E-Stop is designed to ONLY shut off the air control circuit inside the panel. It will not/cannot shut off the supply air source. Also, be aware of the location of the supply air line’s shut-off valve. A ruptured air line is very dangerous and can become a safety hazard if allowed to whip.
   

8. Make sure your Abrasive Meter valve is closed. It will be set to approximately 1/4 to 1/2 – turn open, later in the procedure.

9. Make sure the abrasive hose is connected and the Ball Valve is closed.

10. Before adding any abrasive, add water to the pot for approximately 5 minutes (you should have about 10 – 20 gallons in the pot before you add any abrasive to make sure the abrasive dose not “dry-clog” in the pot).

11. Set the spring-loaded bung in the OPEN position by aligning the handle with the two slots and then firmly depressing the handle and turning the handle 90 degrees. Proper engagement of the pin will hold the bung down.

12. Add appropriate, non-organic (heavier than water) abrasive (minimum 2 bags, maximum (8) 50 pound bags).

13. You can use a garden hose or the Rinse Hose to help wash the abrasive into the Pot and clear the Bung and the Bung’s Seal. When the water level reaches the bung, release the bung’s engagement pin (turn the handle until it aligns with the two slots in the cover plate), and the bung pops up against its seal.

14. Continue to add water into the Pot by putting the Selector Valve in the FILL position. You will not see water filling the basin.

15. The Auto Vent/Purge Valve will allow all of the air in the top of the POT to vent out. When it stops venting, you will see the Pot Pressure Gauge start to register pressure. The picture below shows the auto vent/purge valve.

16. Confirm that the water pressure in the Pot reaches the pre-set value of 90 – 100 psi (pounds per square inch) as shown on the Pot Pressure Gauge on the front of the panel. Initial Pot Pressure should be 20 psi or higher than intended Blast Pressure. Initial POT pressure is set using the pot pressure regulator, located next to the POT PRESSURE GAUGE. The Pot Pressure Gauge is located on the left hand side of the picture.
    
    

17. Position Selector Valve in the BLAST position. “Crack” open the Abrasive Meter valve (about 1/8 turn or less), keeping in mind that opening it too far will waste abrasive and not improve the efficiency of the wet-abrasive blaster. 

18. PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). Make sure that you are wearing all of the proper protection (ear, eye, nose and mouth) required by the application which is determined by the abrasive being used AND the material being removed. Most facilities have their own standards as well! Be sure to check with the project manager on every job site.

19. Using the chart in my previous blog “Blasting Tips For EcoBlaster”  as your starting guideline, adjust the blast pressure to the approximate desired setting using the Blast Pressure Regulator. For the initial setting, leave the Abrasive Hose Ball Valve closed. Engage the Dead-Man Handle and adjust the blast regulator until the Gauge shows the desired setting. Press and release the Dead-Man Handle each time you make an adjustment to the blast regulator. In this picture the blast regulator, blast pressure gauge and abrasive dose meter are located at the top of the control panel.

20. Open the Abrasive Hose Ball Valve and confirm that the Pot pressure returns to its initial setting. Activate the Dead-Man Handle. It may take several seconds for abrasive to travel the length of the Blast Hose – be patient.

21. Once abrasive is blasting from the nozzle, “dial in” the Blast Pressure Regulator and Abrasive Dose Meter valves using a piece of test material similar to what you will be blasting. (If a test piece is not readily available, test on an area of the application that is obscure – if possible. Always start off as gently as possible and then increase the blast force as necessary to clean, without doing any damage to the substrate.) When properly set, the water pump should stroke about every second.

22. Once you are happy with the results, you are ready to blast your application. It is a good idea to close the Abrasive Hose Ball Valve when you stop blasting for more than a few minutes. This will help to extend the service life of the diaphragm in the diaphragm valve.
    

23. Remember to always start conservatively so you can assess the results without doing damage to the substrate. Approach the material to be blasted at a shallow angle so that the blast and waste bounces away from your body. Keep the Blast Nozzle a good distance from the application until you get a feel for the results. You can then adjust the blast pressure, the nozzle angle, and the nozzle’s distance from the application in order to perfectly “dial in” the results.

24. If you are blasting higher than the EcoBlaster System, make sure that there is a length of blast hose, equal to 10 – 20% of the height to which you are blasting, on the ground. In other words, if you are blasting 50 feet straight up , you should have at least 5 – 10 feet of blast hose on the ground BEFORE the blast hose goes up to the blasting height. The Hose on the ground serves as a sink-trap to prevent unspent media in the hose from back-filling the internal plumbing of the panel. The following graphic will help with this concept.  
    

 Well there you have it ladies and gents! I hope this blog wasn’t too confusing. I wanted to give everybody a sort of virtual tour around the equipment, while answering most questions that people may have. Anyways the sun is shining and the surf is pumping! have a nice weekend everyone, I’m out!

The EcoBlaster Saves Unspent Abrasive, Check it Out!

Saving Abrasive At The End Of The Job Or Shift

Hello everybody! This is one of my favorite features about blasting equipment in general cause you’re able to save yourself money at the end of every job by recycling your unused abrasive. However, we decided to take things a step further and bring to our customers and future prospects even more savings! Simply cause EcoBlaster uses only a faction of abrasive required for dry sandblasting (often 10% to 20% of what you would use with conventional blasting). Also, we have greatly reduced clean up time and reduced the time and expense of proper abrasive disposal! I can smell the savings piling up! Lets go over how to “purge” the EcoBlaster system of all unspent abrasive.

1. When you have finished the blasting application, perform wash-down long enough so that all of the abrasive is flushed from the blast hose ( I hope everybody remembers how to do this!)

2. Position the “selector valve” in the “off” position and the “abrasive hose ball valve”   turned “off” as well. Continue to blast until you no longer see water coming from the blast hose, this is to dry the inside of the hose for storage ( doesn’t have to be done after every job but that decision is up to you)

3. Estimate a 5-gallon pail will be needed for each bag of abrasive still in the pot. Make sure you close the “abrasive hose ball valve”. There is still water pressure in the pot and you need the ball valve closed in order to safely release the pressure. Put the selector valve in the “fill/flush” position.   

4. Release the “Cam Quick-Coupler” between the “abrasive hose ball valve” and the control panels “groove” by removing the safety pins and pulling the rings out and up to pull the two cams away from the groove.      

5. Hold a bucket under the panels groove and turn the “selector valve” to the wash-down position. This will flush the control box and groove. Catch the unspent abrasive that will be washed out of the control box plumbing and out of the groove fitting.

6. Now turn the “selector valve” back to the “fill/flush” position, as this will aid in pushing the abrasive out through the abrasive hose.

7. Place the bucket under the abrasive hose and slowly open the abrasive hose ball valve and catch the abrasive in the buckets so it can be used for your next application. Be sure to cover the buckets during storage so debris does not contaminate the abrasive. Also keep in mind that the harder it is to turn the abrasive hose ball valve = the more pressure there is still in the pot.

8. Once the pot pressure reduces ( you will hear the pump speed up as it can no longer keep up with the volume of water draining from the hose), turn the selector valve back to the “off” position. Now that purging is complete feel free to make a note of your fluids and fuel level, a systems check is not always necessary but it’s good to know the condition of your equipment for your next job or shift.
   

9. IMPORTANT NOTE: Purging the pot is not necessary after every shift; in fact, you can leave the pot filled with abrasive for a couple of days without any repercussions. However, driving from job site to job site is a different story. Bumps in the road will cause the abrasive to compact at the funnel of the pot producing a massive clog and quite a mess.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     

Using the EcoBlaster Wash-Down Feature

Today I’m going to go over the EcoBlaster wash-down feature and why it’s important to utilize after every job. Although it is not enforced, it can only help with not only job site cleanliness but this feature is great for maintaining the integrity of your equipment as well! Before wash-down, make sure the “abrasive hose ball valve” is turned to the off position to avoid any abrasive from entering the stream. Next, position the “selector valve”  in the wash-down position. To use the feature apply pressure to the Dead-Man Handle (a manually operated valve or switch that allows starting and stopping of the wet blast operation from the end of the blast hose, closest to the nozzle) to control wash-down in the same manner as you do when you blast.

What is a Wash-Down?

A feature that causes air-driven water (without abrasive) to blast and rinse areas that have already been blasted with abrasive. Also a necessary feature for flushing abrasive from the blast hose!

Do’s and Dont’s

1. There will always be some residual abrasive in the blast hose; never use the wash-down feature on any surface other than where you have blasted, or intend to blast, as it will affect/dull the surface.
2. Do not use the wash-down feature on wood that has been blasted as it could cause the grain to rise. Wait for the wood to dry and then use a broom or a brush to sweep away any residual abrasive.
3. Always use the wash-down feature before going on break, especially when you are blasting at a higher level than the blasting unit. This is to prevent residual abrasive migrating from the blast hose into the panel.

IMPORTANT: After you wash-down the blasted area, turn the “selector valve” to the “off/rinse” position. This will allow you to blast compressed air; however, there will always be some residual abrasive in the blast hose, so be very careful not to point the hose at any surface not intended to be blasted, including a person or animal. 

Blasting Tips for EcoBlaster

Hey everybody! thought I might throw in some helpful blasting tips when using the EcoBlaster. EcoBlaster is similar to other blasting equipment so most likely these are tips that will be useful to blasters of all skill levels.

Blasting Hint #1

Blasting Hint #2

When you are learning the system, you will get a better “feel” for the flow rate of the “abrasive dose valves”. Before you pressurize the pot, temporarily disconnect the abrasive does tubing at the pot. Watch the flow of water from the disconnected tubing while adjusting the “abrasive dose valve”. Realize one drop of water will equal one drop of abrasive material going through the nozzle while blasting.

Dose Settings

There is no “fixed” formula on what works best in each situation. However, here is a brief rundown on what works best 90% of the time, and from there you can adjust, up or down, to get the fastest removal rates without damage to the surface. Normal settings after pressuring the pot are: 0 turn water, and 1/8 t0 1/4 turn abrasive, with blasting pressure at 45 to 55 psi. This works best for most applications, especially fiberglass. For applications requiring a more aggressive approach, set the water dose at 1/8 turn, the abrasive dose at 3/8 turn, and the blasting pressure at 80 to 100 psi. Fine-tune the adjustments to meet your requirements for specific applications.

Blasting pressure should range between 45 – 70 psi; unlike sandblasting, higher pressure doesn’t necessarily mean better cleaning. Your distance and angle of the nozzle from the surface has much more effect on performance than just the blast pressure.